Mark Meckes
7th April 2001, 02:37 PM
One method of pruning branches is to use a fine toothed coping saw or hand saw to cut almost all the way through at the node,and then the branch can be snapped off.
With this method, the branch can be cut off flush with the culm wall.
Another method is to use a hand pruner.
I always keep a file handy to sharpen the blade at the first signs of dulling.
With this method a small segment of the branch is left on at the node.
It is best to cut at right-angles, or perpindicular to the length of the branch so that no sharp stubs are there to cause injury, especially if the bamboo is going to be hand cleaned or handled later.
I generally prefer this pruning method because:
- It's quicker then with a coping saw.
- It makes the node look more prominent, more bambooey, which adds to the character of a product.
This branch stub can always be sanded down on the edge
of the belt sander or trimmed to shape later if needed.
- If this branched culm section gets used for garden stakes, the branch stub is helpful for tying and securing growing plants.
Sometimes I will leave a longer branch stub for garden
purposes.
Pictures:
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/1/thumbs/1MVC-057F.JPG Modified Pruner (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=541)
The side cutting pruner on the right has been modified.
The `anvil' portion portion has been filed down to a narrow point to enable it to fit closely between the branch stub and culm wall.
This should be filed smooth, with no sharp edges, to avoid scratching the culm wall while cutting.
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/1/thumbs/1MVC-058F.JPG Trimming Phyllostachys Branches (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=542)
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/1/thumbs/1MVC-059F.JPG
Trimmed Phyllostachys Branch Stubs (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=543)
~ Mark
With this method, the branch can be cut off flush with the culm wall.
Another method is to use a hand pruner.
I always keep a file handy to sharpen the blade at the first signs of dulling.
With this method a small segment of the branch is left on at the node.
It is best to cut at right-angles, or perpindicular to the length of the branch so that no sharp stubs are there to cause injury, especially if the bamboo is going to be hand cleaned or handled later.
I generally prefer this pruning method because:
- It's quicker then with a coping saw.
- It makes the node look more prominent, more bambooey, which adds to the character of a product.
This branch stub can always be sanded down on the edge
of the belt sander or trimmed to shape later if needed.
- If this branched culm section gets used for garden stakes, the branch stub is helpful for tying and securing growing plants.
Sometimes I will leave a longer branch stub for garden
purposes.
Pictures:
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/1/thumbs/1MVC-057F.JPG Modified Pruner (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=541)
The side cutting pruner on the right has been modified.
The `anvil' portion portion has been filed down to a narrow point to enable it to fit closely between the branch stub and culm wall.
This should be filed smooth, with no sharp edges, to avoid scratching the culm wall while cutting.
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/1/thumbs/1MVC-058F.JPG Trimming Phyllostachys Branches (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=542)
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/1/thumbs/1MVC-059F.JPG
Trimmed Phyllostachys Branch Stubs (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=543)
~ Mark