Bamboo Splitters (Radial - 3,6,10X)

[Mark Meckes]

The 2 splitters ( X3, X6 )I ordered, arrived in the
mail today from Tradewinds Bamboo Nursery in Oregon
WWW.bamboodirect.com
What a great pleasure it is to split bamboo with this tool!...
Here's some pictures splitting our Phyllosyachys aurea:
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/502/thumbs/1MVC-052F.JPG
6 X Splitter- View from above (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=536)

http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/502/thumbs/1MVC-053F.JPG
6 X Splitter- View from the side (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=537)

http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/502/thumbs/1MVC-054F.JPG
6 X Splitter- View from below (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=538)

The X6 splitter can split up to a 3 3/4 inch (9.5cm) dia culm, and the X3 splitter up to 3 1/4 inch (8.5cm) dia culm.
The smallest diameter I was able to split was a 3/4 inch (2cm) dia culm with the X6 splitter, giving 3/8inch (1cm) strips.
The blade intersection needs to sharpened better (in the center part of the X6 splitter), and I think even smaller dia culms could be split.
It appears that the blades were sharpened with a rotary grinder, as the center intersection of the X6 blades were not sharpened.
The blades have a taper, tapering outwards to 5/16th inch (8mm) wide.

I found that using the X3 splitter was harder then the X6, to control the split
as the splitter tended to veer to one side while splitting a long culm.

I split a knobby piece of P. aurea with the 6 X Splitter and it opened it up to very interesting zig-zag
strips....
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/502/thumbs/1MVC-055F.JPG
one knobby noded split Phyllostachys aurea culm. (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=539)

http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/502/thumbs/1X3_Bamboo_Splitter.jpg
3X Bamboo Splitter - Side view (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=783) - note the blade shape - which extends well above the splitter, and helps to open the split at the nodal juncture.

Mark

[Darrel]

Check out Hida Tools in Berkeley
http://www.hidatool.com/

If you check out their website, you'll see a very blurry picture (that includes me)of the building of a corner of a japanese temple at the recent conference of the Timber Framers Guild. (I also committed the heresy of showing some slides suggesting that they didn't need to be lugging around all that heavy wood, when they could be using bamboo! I was roundly, but good-naturedly, booed)

Darrel

[Mark Meckes]

I recently picked up a hefty 10 X splitter...
Here's some pics...
Splitting a piece of Moso - Phyllostachys edulis aka P. pubescens
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/502/thumbs/10XSplitter040120-578.jpg (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=1446) http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/502/thumbs/1MVC-577F.JPG (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=806)
In my haste to try out my new splitter, I didn't center it exactly before using, so (as the picture shows, the strips are uneven widths... no problem. This is a fun tool to use!

http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/502/thumbs/1MVC-584F.JPG (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=805)

This splitter can split big bamboo, up to 7" (17cm) diameter.

Mark

[Holger]

Hi all,
I tried to split bamboo with a star splitter and the result was quite okay. I tried it with a very straight piece of bamboo (Bambusa spinosa) with a stemwall thickness around 8mm.
Does anybody of you have experience about thicker stemwalls (up to 20 or 25mm) and harder species like Dendrocalamus membranaceus?

How about the tolerance of slat dimension?

Would be great to get some feedback!

Holger

[Mark Meckes]

Hi Holger,
I have used these bamboo splitters on Moso - Phyllostachys edulis, (P. pubescens) which has a thickness of around 8mm, depending on the portion of the culm, and they work well, but if the bamboo is very dry, bent and distorted, it is harder.

It is easier once the split has been started and a momentum / splitting speed has been attained.
Are you using a similar splitter as shown in the above posts?
These are made of cast iron, and one has to be careful how roughly they are used as they can crack / break and are difficult to weld back together.

Here is a helpful splitting jig ... Bamboo Splitter Equipment (http://www.rtigujarat.org/area-od-activities/research---development/proto2/index.htm#nsp) by Rural Technology Institute - Gujarat (http://www.rtigujarat.org/area-od-activities/research---development/)

Some factors affecting ease of hand splitting...
- Bamboo species location / conditions grown
- Wall thickness, node prominence, straightness of culm
- Harvest age maturity, how processed
- Whether split while still green/with moisture or after drying
- length of bamboo poles to be split
- Portion - base or upper portion of bamboo pole to be split.
- If culm contains cut-off branch stubs at the nodes, these can be very difficult to split through.

Splitting whole culms of bamboo, brings back memories of when I used to split firewood to heat my home ... I would rent a hydraulic log splitter to split the difficult logs with many knots.

Also available are machine driven bamboo splitters such as this bamboo splitting machine:
Edit: Link no longer functions - deleted
Others have made their own homemade versions ...

~ Mark

[Holger]

Hi Mark,
thank you for your information!

Yes I have that in mind that it might be tricky to split and that different factors play a big role.

I trued it with a star similar to the pic above but I am more interested in a machine. As I have a wooden workshop it is not problem to integrate the slats afterwards.
The machines do look promising! I already made an inquiry at www.chin-yung.com and they mentioned their machine got 7.5HP and so even thick and hard species would not be a problem.

I mainly have Luong with average stem wall thickness around 12 to 16mm and i wanna use the whole bamboo.
But I do need quite accurat slats without any big tolerance. With presorting I can get relatifly straight pole (1300mm length) and then the machine mide be usefull.
I am just afraid that the tolerance will be to high.
The thickness is not a problem. Wanna use it for lamination.

Any studies available?

Cheers
Holger

[Mark Meckes]

As shown in this pic, some bamboo poles can make very interesting splits, which can be put to good use in an artistic way, though less suitable for straight strips.
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/502/thumbs/1MVC-055F.JPG (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=539)
The above was split when the bamboo was partially dried, and required working gently with the bamboo to split open the culm in this fashion. I do not think the same could be achieved if it was very dry and by machine - don't really know.

Besides, you and others may desire straighter strips :)

Bamboo floooring manufacturing uses relatively short strips of bamboo.
It is possible that there is less waste in the preparation of the strips using shorter lengths.

Various machines are used and steps taken in the process of making laminated bamboo and from a slide show presentation I saw, it looked like the splitting and processing of the materials ensued after harvest and before the bamboo had fully dried.

Are you considering using imported bamboo?
The results may largely depend on the quality and consistency of the materials provided for your use.

> Any studies available?
Are you asking about bamboo lamination info?
If so, can you post a New Thread with this question as it is quite an extensive topic and deserving a thread of it's own.

Cheers,
Mark

[Holger]

Hi Mark,

you are right, I will need straighter strips! And it is really an interesting topic and I will open a new topic regarding lamination this eve.

I have good contacts to south east asia and know that they are using a splitting saw. But there you have to saw 4 to 10 times per pole. Very unefficiant!!

At the moment I am in contact with some manufaturer and will let you know any news! I will need more specific info about tolerances and look forward to send them some poles for splitting.

Thank you!

Holger

[Mark Meckes]

Some thoughts, when comparing between a saw cut and splitting ...

A split strip is stronger because splitting follows the alignment of the fiber.
Disadvantages
- the split piece may not always be straight and has coarser edges.

A saw makes a straight cut
Disadvantage
- The strips may not be as strong, as the cut may not follow the grain of fiber. (important issue for some craft uses)
- The saw wastes material
- More dust in workplace environment

Mark

[Troppo]

Hi Mark,
Sorry to be a gravedigger, :rolleyes: but have you tried your handtool to make 2m long slats for a bamboo bed?

If yes, how do you handle such a length?

Cheers

Troppo :)

[Mark Meckes]

Hi Troppo,
Do you for mean something like this?
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/523/thumbs/05_06_08_3_Rios_M_veis_020_m.jpg (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=1315)

See thread: Making a bamboo bed - by bambubrasileiro (http://www.bamboocraft.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1563)

Radial splitters work great, though the main impediments are if the bamboo is strongly tapered, knarly or thick walled.
With larger diameter, thick walled bamboo, it's best to punch out the nodal diaphragm prior to splitting, with a length of rebar or iron pipe.
The sharp edge of the splitter blade is only really used to get the split started, then it is the actual width of the blades that force the split open as the splitter is pulled down the culm.
But because the nodal diaphragm holds the bamboo together, removing it makes it easier for the bamboo to split apart when the splitter approaches the nodes.

Bamboo splits easier when it is green/fresh harvested.
Ease of splitting also depends on the species of bamboo being split.

My experience has been mostly of Phyllostachys species and I've yet to culmpare differences splitting tropical bamboos.

The main distributor in the US for these radial splitters is Hida Tool (http://www.hidatool.com/bamboopage/splitters.html)
They are manufactured in Japan. They are made of cast iron and shouldn't be banged with a metal hammer etc.
I do not know if there is a supplier in Australia. You could check with the company.
I've also seen (pics of) homemade metal fabricated splitters.

Mark

[Troppo]

Hi Troppo,
Do you for mean something like this?

Exactly. :)

Hi Mark.

I'm referring to physically handling a 6'6" culm and using, say, a X6 splitter.

I can imagine a 3 or 4 foot culm would be a doddle, but 6'6"?

What do you do, stand on a chair and bear down on it?

Thanks

Troppo :)

PS. Thanks for the link to Hida Tools, it's given me more to research.... LOL

[Mark Meckes]

What do you do, stand on a chair and bear down on it?
Yep ... or I stand on our sturdy picnic table, or on a step ladder ... or get up on the roof of our house and dive off, clutching the handles of the splitter and descend the pole like a grease monkey. :eek: ;)

For longer poles, what I do is turn the splitter upside down or place it at an angle on a stump/block, then I place the culm on the splitter and tap the other end of the culm with a wooden mallet to get the split started, then I turn it around and begin the splitting.
Once the splitting procedure is in motion, the momentum of it all makes for pretty fast work.

With green/fresh harvested long poles of Phyllostachys aurea - from our grove, up to 2 1/4"/6cm, I can simply tap the base of the pole on a block, and the splitter works it's way down till I can reach it, then I finish the final bit by hand ...

12X Splitter - Splitting a long Phyllostachys aurea pole
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/502/thumbs/Splitter040413-310.JPG (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=1548)

With green bamboo of this size, I don't need to remove the nodal diaphragm beforehand.

(One of these days, after I figure out how to use/edit the video feature on my camera I'll upload a motion shot.)

Mark

[Troppo]

Thanks Mark, just what I wanted to know.

A pic would be worth a thousand words, or better still, a cartoon of a little guy hanging off the top of a tall pole with little legs dangling. ;)

edit: the Indian splitter looks cool and only $15.00
Rural Technology Institute Gurat - India www.rtigujarat.org/

Prototype developed by the Institute :
http://www.rtigujarat.org/area-od-activities/research---development/proto2/index.htm#nsp

http://www.rtigujarat.org/area-od-activities/research---development/MACHINES/split.jpg

Oops, I haven't sussed the attachments thingy yet. :o

[TribalWind]

the Indian splitter looks cool and only $15.00

really? where are these and what number of splits is that?
ive wanted these things for a while but $50-150 seems high ,especially for the amount i'd use them.

[Mark Meckes]

I've added a link to the above post with source of splitter in India:

Rural Technology Institute Gurat - India www.rtigujarat.org/

Prototype developed by the Institute :
http://www.rtigujarat.org/area-od-activities/research---development/proto2/index.htm#nsp

[sundug]

Here`s a picture of the 10" diameter, 8 section Bamboo splitter I just made.

[yi yiyi]

Nice work Sundug ...

Do you have any specs for materials used, cost, time etc?

I was thinking of doing the same thing ...

[junglebeachvietnam]

these tools look good, but with thick walled bamboo, it will be dificult

also most bamboo is not straight,
long poles up to 14 meters with a taper will also be difficult

here in vietnam, people have been using machete type tools to hand split
of course the strips are not even, but they are worked down to make uniform pieces
then again with the machete, they are thinned out to desired thickness

by cutting up whole length, one can then pick out the desired straight length and cut them up

it is best to start off cutting wide strips, then trimming down to desired length

making any type of strips is a time consuming practice

as for basket weaving, again done by hand with a machete
most of the bamboo is waste as only a very thin piece is used

here at JB, we do not use thin walled bamboo as we find it is weak or immature bamboo, there for will have a pest problem
older , thick walled bamboo seems much better for just about any application

i find that most of the commercial bamboo furniture i have seen so far uses thin walled bamboo, a lot of it is also milled to uniform sizes
i think that these furniture will not stand up to lots of usage

i think that using thick walled bamboo as is, creates very nice furniture, which is very strong, same with the strips
we use it for building bungalows as well as furniture, where each piece is different from others, has a very natural look to it and can withstand every day use here