Splitting Bamboo Strips

[Mark Meckes]

I have only done a minimal amount of split bamboo work, using a cleaver to split the bamboo into lengths, after punching a hole through the blocked nodes with a pipe.
To shave off the underside of the strips, I use a log with a tapered groove in it (The log is on some concrete blocks at almost waist height), and I hold the cleaver at an angle while I pull the strips through the groove.
I usually have to wack at the node part with the angled cleaver till it cuts through.
I have recently gotten a request for some strips to be used in paper lantern making, so I have ordered 2 round bamboo splitters (X3 and X6).
I would like to learn more on making and using bamboo strips.
The possibilities are endless!

Can anyone offer some suggestions on tools, and jigs that can be made, or where to buy, or any good literature on making and shaping bamboo splits?

Mark

[Mark Mortimer]

I saw in David Farrely's book that a blade should be sharpened only on one
side, and flat on the other.
Anybody know why?

Mark

[bambooda]

Hello Mark,
I've taken several bamboo workshops where splitting was done and believe me it can be taken to a fine art. I really don't split bamboo that often, but what I do is this:
First, I use a Japanese bamboo splitting knife (or what they call hatchet although it looks like a knife to me) which has a laminated steel blade - double bevel edge - 10" long X
1-1/4" wide X 1/4" thick. (Japan Woodworker has some 800 537-7820).
Always start the split from the thinner end toward the base. Mark where you will start the split exactly in half - then set the end against something immobile - seat the edge of the blade on the marks by rocking it in w/ pressure - hit back of blade with wooden mallet until through 2-3 joints - continue from here by twisting the blade rather than trying to push the blade through. If the split starts to wander off - to
correct this - hold the unsplit part of the culm down by stepping on it
- with the smaller half facing down - pull the larger portion upward by hand. This correction technique is tricky and takes practice to get the nuances.
The other thing about successful splitting is straight bamboo - the more crooks and bends in the culm - the more the split will wander.
I also find that hand splitting as described is only really good for culms up to about 3"diam - max & 3/8" wall thickness - max. After that I go to a bandsaw.

Actually, a modification of the above method is much more successful, but much more difficult to describe without illustrations - which I will post someday when I get a handle on the email/photo shtick.
A brief description is this: after splitting to 2-3 joints I place the opening of the split onto (?) a hardwood wedge that is mounted on a stable surface at about waist high
- the wedge is set vertically and is about 10" high - 6" wide - 3/4" thick
- the double beveled edge tapers from 0" to 3/4" in 4".
I push (quick shove) the culm through the wedge one
internode at a time and check that the split is even
- if it starts to wander I use a levering tool that puts pressure on the thick half side of the culm JUST BEFORE the split and at the same time pulls the thick half part that is already split away
- same idea as the description above with the feet and pulling - only sideways - get it?
Anyway, this method is much easier to control, much less work and mandatory for the larger culms.
The resulting halves then can be split into quarters,
etc. , but always right in half.
If you try to split let's say, 1/3 and 2/3rds the split will wander.
I also don't knock out the nodes before splitting.

I also use a table saw and planer in certain applications to produce the strips that I need, but that is another discussion.

- Cal