Mark Meckes
12th March 2001, 03:35 PM
Here's some scroll saw recommendations:
- That the blade armature not be like a rigid `C'.
The top part of the `C' needs independant action.
The rigid `C' type of scroll saw create a `lunging forward of the blade when it goes up and down.
These are usually the very cheapest scroll saws.
I paid about $180 for a Craftsman Scroll Saw 10 years ago, with a 16 inch throat, single speed.
It works great, except one problem: pin-end blades, so ...
- Make sure that it uses plain end blades, with a quick release and easy blade change mechanism.
With plain end blades, only a very small hole needs to be drilled, compared to pin-ends, prior to cutting out a design within a piece of bamboo.
This is very important for small intricate work like jewelry.
Also there is a much greater variety of types of plain-end blades then pin-end blades.
- Depth of throat: The 16 inch throat generally has worked well for me, though sometimes I've wished it
was a little deeper.
With scroll saw work the piece that is being worked on may have to be rotated during cutting, so the piece can only be as long as the throat depth.
Trouble is, prices increase $100-$200 with deeper throats.
- Smooth table surface - so nodes don't get caught in table grooves. I also clamp on a piece of thin plywood on the table, make a small hole for the blade, so I dont lose small pieces down the hole.
- The material hold-down foot should be able to be removed, because it's useless for working with curved
or round bamboo.
- Options: Variable speed, and saw dust blower.
- Scroll Saw Design should be of solid construction with low vibration and quiet running.
- Portability: Bench-top model for easier carrying for outside work.
- Price: It's possible to get one for less then $200.
I want to get a new (plain end blade) model this summer ... I'm eyeing a 24 1/2" throat, 2 speed, with dust blower `Craftsman' for $300 ... I'll be window shopping for a while, and there's also other brand models I should also look at, and hopefully hear of other suggestions.
Mark
- That the blade armature not be like a rigid `C'.
The top part of the `C' needs independant action.
The rigid `C' type of scroll saw create a `lunging forward of the blade when it goes up and down.
These are usually the very cheapest scroll saws.
I paid about $180 for a Craftsman Scroll Saw 10 years ago, with a 16 inch throat, single speed.
It works great, except one problem: pin-end blades, so ...
- Make sure that it uses plain end blades, with a quick release and easy blade change mechanism.
With plain end blades, only a very small hole needs to be drilled, compared to pin-ends, prior to cutting out a design within a piece of bamboo.
This is very important for small intricate work like jewelry.
Also there is a much greater variety of types of plain-end blades then pin-end blades.
- Depth of throat: The 16 inch throat generally has worked well for me, though sometimes I've wished it
was a little deeper.
With scroll saw work the piece that is being worked on may have to be rotated during cutting, so the piece can only be as long as the throat depth.
Trouble is, prices increase $100-$200 with deeper throats.
- Smooth table surface - so nodes don't get caught in table grooves. I also clamp on a piece of thin plywood on the table, make a small hole for the blade, so I dont lose small pieces down the hole.
- The material hold-down foot should be able to be removed, because it's useless for working with curved
or round bamboo.
- Options: Variable speed, and saw dust blower.
- Scroll Saw Design should be of solid construction with low vibration and quiet running.
- Portability: Bench-top model for easier carrying for outside work.
- Price: It's possible to get one for less then $200.
I want to get a new (plain end blade) model this summer ... I'm eyeing a 24 1/2" throat, 2 speed, with dust blower `Craftsman' for $300 ... I'll be window shopping for a while, and there's also other brand models I should also look at, and hopefully hear of other suggestions.
Mark