Mark Meckes
8th March 2001, 11:56 AM
Bamboo can be split length-wise using various tools and techniques.
The splitting tool follows along the path of the fiber strands. Practice and experience is needed to ensure that it splits where you want it to.
If the pole has bends and wavers, the split will want to follow these bends.
This is alright if you are making strips that don't matter if they are bent.
I like to use a bandsaw for the following situations:
- To cut a longer piece in half, and to have a flat,
even surface on the cut side.
- Or when a 2/3 - 1/3 ratio cut is desired.
- Or to cut a distorted length of bamboo in half.
- Or if one doesn't want the node partition inside the culm node to be cracked or broken, which happens when using splitting methods.
A band saw can work great - when you want flat half-rounds for paneling, picture frames, or any situation where the length-wise cut has to be very straight, and have a smooth finish on the cut.
At least for up to 3' dia bamboo, (which is the largest diameter that my benchtop bandsaw can cut), I always use a bandsaw blade with the greatest number of teeth per inch that I can get, (15 tpi).
A method is to attach a guide rail to your band saw.
Then fit on another board that will slide along with the piece of bamboo you are cutting.
You will have to position the bamboo piece where you want the cut.
If it's got bends, practice will show the best way to align the bamboo to suit your needs.
If the pole is strongly tapered and you want the cut to be in the exact middle, you may need to fit a thin wedge of wood at one end of the board that moves along with the cut, to compensate for the taper.
Sawing a length of Phyllostachys aurea with a bandsaw
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/510/thumbs/1MVC-034F.JPG (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=518)
Notice that on the shortened internode, that there is a hole in the bamboo.
This occasionally occurs when the nodes of Phyllostachys aurea grow closer together, further up the
culm, where it branches. I think what happens is that the branch grows similar to an ingrown toenail but then dies and leaves a hole where the branch would be. This hole is not caused by insects.
Two lengths cut in half
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/510/thumbs/1MVC-035F.JPG (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=519)
Notice the pieces to the left that had the hole in it is darker inside because it wasn't sealed from the weather during it's lifetime.
Mark
The splitting tool follows along the path of the fiber strands. Practice and experience is needed to ensure that it splits where you want it to.
If the pole has bends and wavers, the split will want to follow these bends.
This is alright if you are making strips that don't matter if they are bent.
I like to use a bandsaw for the following situations:
- To cut a longer piece in half, and to have a flat,
even surface on the cut side.
- Or when a 2/3 - 1/3 ratio cut is desired.
- Or to cut a distorted length of bamboo in half.
- Or if one doesn't want the node partition inside the culm node to be cracked or broken, which happens when using splitting methods.
A band saw can work great - when you want flat half-rounds for paneling, picture frames, or any situation where the length-wise cut has to be very straight, and have a smooth finish on the cut.
At least for up to 3' dia bamboo, (which is the largest diameter that my benchtop bandsaw can cut), I always use a bandsaw blade with the greatest number of teeth per inch that I can get, (15 tpi).
A method is to attach a guide rail to your band saw.
Then fit on another board that will slide along with the piece of bamboo you are cutting.
You will have to position the bamboo piece where you want the cut.
If it's got bends, practice will show the best way to align the bamboo to suit your needs.
If the pole is strongly tapered and you want the cut to be in the exact middle, you may need to fit a thin wedge of wood at one end of the board that moves along with the cut, to compensate for the taper.
Sawing a length of Phyllostachys aurea with a bandsaw
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/510/thumbs/1MVC-034F.JPG (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=518)
Notice that on the shortened internode, that there is a hole in the bamboo.
This occasionally occurs when the nodes of Phyllostachys aurea grow closer together, further up the
culm, where it branches. I think what happens is that the branch grows similar to an ingrown toenail but then dies and leaves a hole where the branch would be. This hole is not caused by insects.
Two lengths cut in half
http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/data/510/thumbs/1MVC-035F.JPG (http://www.bamboocraft.net/workshop/showphoto.php?photo=519)
Notice the pieces to the left that had the hole in it is darker inside because it wasn't sealed from the weather during it's lifetime.
Mark