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jpccusa
15th January 2007, 07:29 PM
Several months ago I had the idea of having a waterwall. After researching for prices, I found out that I would have to pay around $5,000.00 American dollars to have the fountain in the size that I had in mind, which is 6 feet tall by 5 feet wide.
I then decided to get to work and build my own (PS: I have no wood work abilities/tolls)
I wanted to use a bamboo fence which I built using bamboo stakes 0.5' in diameter by 5ft tall, tied together with fishing line.
After reinforcing the back with "vertical" bamboo stakes and using Gorilla glue to tie them together (thanks to this website forum), I am almost done with the project.
I will glue a plastic sheet to the back of the "fence" (the part with the reinforcements) to avoid water from passing to the back. I am using silicone in order to do so.
The only thing that I need now is to protect the front part of the bamboo fence from rotting since the stakes are going to be soaked 24/7. Is boat varnish a good option? What should be the pre-treatment for the varnish?

ddhort
15th January 2007, 09:06 PM
Hi neighbor and fellow bamboo fans,

Great project! Did you cut the bamboo yourself? Where did you acquire the canes?

Please post pics when you've completed your masterpiece. I have been pondering building a bamboo fountain for months to install at my place of work, we are an office complex in Culver City with hundreds of feet of bamboo and the fountain would fit right in.

Regarding a good clear coat, I have experienced a product from a company called POR 15, the specific product is called Pelucid. Extremely tough, waterproof and easy to apply. Link is below if you are interested.

http://www.por15.com/products.asp?dept=6

Regards,

David

Mark Meckes
16th January 2007, 05:48 AM
Hi jpccusa,
This is a very interesting project and look forward to it's progression!

I have reservations on using varnishes on submersed bamboo, but then, I haven't tried it or used the new varnishes on the market.
(Thanks David for the link)

Here's a quote of some thoughts on painting bamboo, which could be applied to varnishes...


There are a couple of factors which makes it difficult for paint to stick to bamboo.
Firstly bamboo has a natural waxy coating on it's surface that protects it from the elements, ie, to prevent moisture evaporation during dry periods, and for protection from biodegradation during wet periods.
This waxy substance makes it difficult for paint to adhere.

Secondly, the densest or hardest portion of a piece of bamboo is at the outer culm surface, or just under the outer skin of the bamboo.
For this reason paints are not easily able to penetrate or absorb into the bamboo.

I should note that there is a great amount of variability in the 'wood' characteristics, surface texture and waxy coatings in the 1000+ species of bamboo.
Some bamboo species have a naturally highly glossy surface while others have a powdery or dull surface. Some surfaces are smooth while others have ridges or are pitted. Some bamboos will degrade fairly rapidly when exposed to outdoor conditions while others will last for years.
While bamboos in temperate climates keep fairly clean during their growing lifetime, with just a little dirt buildup, many bamboos species growing near warm humid coastal areas and in tropical regions can experience a large buildup of algae, moss and grime on their surface, which can completely obscure the culm surface. This will come off to some degree after washing, scrubbing and drying the bamboo.
Some furniture makers in the tropics, especially with large diameter bamboo species, actually scrape, plane or shave off the surface skin, exposing the wood below, which is then more absorbant to paints and varnishes.

When it comes to painting bamboo, my own experience is limited and mostly for craft use not subjected to outdoor conditions.

The 2 main problems with painting bamboo are ...
- paint coming off if the item is in high traffic area and is scratched or scuffed in any way.
- paint peeling off if moisture from rain and humidity gets between the paint and bamboo.

Now, there are many paints available specially formulated for indoor and outdoor use, and also paints formulated for marine or wet conditions and for high traffic areas like decks.
This is an area that certainly needs more research and feedback on what people have found works and doesn't work under varying conditions.

Another note is that when bamboo is water soaked, it changes color from beige to tans and browns. Bamboo with little waxy coating or older weathered bamboo changes color faster. Upon drying it changes back to it's previous color. I think this color change is quite attractive and am just mentioning this because you will probably notice this after you get your waterfall into motion.

One suggestion that gives limited protection is a paste wax, and I've heard of people using a liquid floor wax on fencing.
After a while this would wear away, but you could always dry and re-apply a coating when needed.

As with any water garden, an ongoing maintenance task is preventing or removing algae buildup on the fountain parts.
It's usually a matter of personal preference when and how often a pool is cleaned up and given a makeover.

Mark

jpccusa
16th January 2007, 11:54 AM
Thanks for the replies David and Mark.

David, I did not cut them myself. I purchased them on the internet, quite cheap. I have half the bale left over (if I ever decide to do all over again :) )

Here is the link for the place where I bought them from.
http://www.amleo.com/index/item.cgi?cmd=view&Words=n60

Regarding the "pelucid", did you ever try that in bamboo? It might work. Can you buy it anywhere else besides the internet?

Mark, I liked the idea of the wax. It would have to be reapplied more often, but it might work better. What do you think it would happen if I leave the bamboo completely untreated?

Mark Meckes
16th January 2007, 05:55 PM
Hi jpccusa,
The bamboo your using looks like Tonkin Cane. (Pseudosasa amabilis AKA Arundinaria amabilis)
It's reasonably sturdy bamboo but the way in which the branches are cut off leaves a scar and it's at this point that it can develop cracks over time.

You could apply no treatment, and let natural aging take place, though the paste wax does provide some water repelling protection, gives the bamboo a nice sheen, and it might make it easier to to wipe off algae buildup when this occurs.
There are a number of floor paste waxes ...
In the US I use TreWax which is more 'natural' and less odorous.
Johnson Floor wax works well but is more odorous - contains petroleum distillates.
I would get a nice sized shoe polishing brush and apply the paste wax then buff it up.

FYI ... Bamboo that is constantly sumberged can over time become more brittle though this shouldn't be a problem with your design, as a single piece isn't being put under stress of weight etc.
The other aging process is when bamboo undergoes changes of humidity from wet to dry and exposure to sun and shade etc. This contraction and expansion can cause cracks to form eventually, and sun exposure will bleach the bamboo.

Mark

ddhort
16th January 2007, 08:46 PM
Hi jpccusa,

I have not used Pelucid on bamboo, but have used it for my wood handles on my landscaping tools. Two coats and it is impenetrable. Also used it to seal the birch kick panels on my old VW bus (yes, I'm still a hippy at heart).

I have only ordered it direct from POR 15. Their shipping is superb and prompt. Some of their products are available locally but I prefer to deal with them direct.

Thank you for the link. I am familiar with AM Leonard. They provide good products for us farmer/gardeners and excellent customer service.

Regards,

David

Bamboofount
22nd January 2007, 11:08 PM
Hi Mark and waterfall bamboo makers

If I can help! Give a look. No words necessary:).
Importante: Mesmo que os bambus estejam protegidos das intempéries ou que estejam na rua expostos ao sol e chuva, sofrerão ao ataque de fungos e algas.
Logo, dois procedimentos serão necessários para distanciar as manutenções que independentemente de qualquer proteção, serão necessárias:
1 - Os bambus devem ser autoclavados no sentido de reduzir os teores de proteínas/açucares(que são os substratos dos microrganismos).
2 - Fazer no mínimo 3 aplicações de verniz para madeira (stain).
Esra fonte, sobre o lago,foi feita para testar uma nova técnica de tratamento dos bambus(D.giganteus) e de vernizes de proteção (para uso externo) cujos resultados ainda não disponho por ser muito recente.
Bye,
Ene,
PS.: Mark: Translate please!

This lake it is in my country house beside my bamboos area - Under construction yet.

http://www.bamboocraft.net/gallery/data/3040/thumbs/Lago-Fonte-Pedras_2689.JPG (http://www.bamboocraft.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2116&cat=3040&ppuser=359) http://www.bamboocraft.net/gallery/data/3040/thumbs/359Wood_barrel_Bamboofount.jpg (http://www.bamboocraft.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=916&cat=3040&ppuser=359) http://www.bamboocraft.net/gallery/data/3040/thumbs/359Big_size_fountain_5_bamboos.JPG (http://www.bamboocraft.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=915&cat=3040&ppuser=359)

Mark Meckes
23rd January 2007, 06:52 AM
Hi Ene, My translation is poor but here's a brief summary. Feel free to correct.

Important: The bamboo must be protected from the weather because exposure to the sun and rain can cause attack from fungus and algae.
Two procedures will be necessary to provide protection:
1 - The bamboos must be treated in order to reduce starches which attract microrganisms.
2 - At the very least make 3 varnish applications over wood (stain).

The fountain on the lake, was made to test a new technique for treating bamboo (D.giganteus) and was protected using varnishes (for external use).
I am awaiting results as the application tried was very recent.

The fountain on the lake is beautiful!

Mark

Bamboofount
25th January 2007, 10:15 PM
Mark

I will try to translate! I wrote the text in portuguese because I can explain better the context idea... but...
whether the bamboo is protected from the weather or not at any time it is subjected to attack by fungus or algae because it will be in contact with the fountain water. Then, two procedures will be necessary to protect it and provide more distance between the maintenance times (an ongoing necessity).

1- The bamboos must be treated in autoclave (retort) with immersion in order to complete destruction of remaining proteins (if previously dried) and to reduce starch. I develop my own method to do that may produce good results because I have my own retort. If you do not have a retort? Buy autoclaved bamboos.
Retort(=autoclave) It is a machine used to sterilize Food/Wood/laboratories pieces/ and others with controlled pressure and steam.
2- At the very least make 3 varnish applications over wood(stain).
This fountain on the lake, was made to test a new technique for treating bamboo (D.giganteus) and to test the varnish too (for external uses).
I am awaiting results as the application tried was very recent.
OBS.: In the case of this lake, the problem increases because we have vegetal life on the surface (green) and too much organic material on the botton (leaves and dust). Sometimes birds, dogs, frogs, spiders and so on... come to enjoy this availability - All this organics materials will help to deteriorate the bamboo.
This is the main reason to protect them well.
The same will happen with table top fountains even though weather protected. Will be a question of time!

For more details about denaturation of proteins - See Denaturation Protein (biochemistry) on the Google as the following ... only for example.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia:

Irreversible egg protein denaturation and loss of solubility, caused by the high temperature (while cooking it)
Denaturation is the alteration of a protein shape through some form of external stress (for example, by applying heat, acid or alkali), in such a way that it will no longer be able to carry out its cellular function. Denatured proteins can exhibit a wide range of characteristics, from loss of solubility to communal aggregation.

Proteins are very long strands of amino acids linked together in specific sequences. A protein is created by ribosomes that "read" codons in the gene and assemble the requisite amino acid combination from the genetic instruction, in a process known as translation. The newly created protein strand then undergoes post-translational modification in which additional atoms or molecules are added, for example copper, zinc, iron. Once this post-translational modification process has been completed, the protein begins to fold (spontaneously, and sometimes with enzymatic assistance), curling up on itself so that hydrophobic elements of the protein are buried deep inside the structure and hydrophilic elements end up on the outside. The final shape of a protein determines how it interacts with its environment.
Contents
1 How denaturation occurs at levels of protein structure
2 Loss of function
3 Reversibility and irreversibility
4 Some common examples
5 Nucleic acid denaturation
6 See Also
7 External links
How denaturation occurs at levels of protein structure
In quaternary structure denaturation, protein sub-units are dissociated and/or the spatial arrangement of protein subunits is disrupted.
Tertiary structure denaturation involves the disruption of:
Covalent interactions between amino acid side chains (such as disulfide bridges between cysteine groups)
Noncovalent dipole-dipole interactions between polar amino acid side chains (and the surrounding solvent)
Van der Waals (induced dipole) interactions between nonpolar amino acid side chains.
In secondary structure denaturation, proteins lose all regular repeating patterns such as alpha-helixes and beta-pleated sheets, and adopt a random coil configuration.
Primary structure, such as the sequence of amino acids held together by covalent peptide bonds, is not disrupted by denaturation.
Loss of function
Most biological proteins lose their biological function when denatured, For example, enzymes lose their catalytic activity, because the substrates can no longer bind to the active site, and because amino acid residues involved in stabilizing substrates' transition states are no longer positioned to be able to do so.
Reversibility and irreversibility
In many proteins (unlike egg whites), denaturation is reversible (the proteins can regain their native state when the denaturing influence is removed). This was important historically, as it led to the notion that all the information needed for proteins to assume their native state was encoded in the primary structure of the protein, and hence in the DNA that codes for the protein.
Some common examples
When food is cooked, some of its proteins become denatured. This is why boiled eggs become hard and cooked meat becomes firm.
A classic example of denaturing in proteins comes from egg whites, which are largely egg albumins in water. Fresh from the eggs, egg whites are transparent and liquid. But by cooking they are turned opaque and white, and form an interconnected solid mass. The same transformation can be effected with a denaturing chemical. Pouring egg whites into a beaker of acetone will also turn egg whites opaque and solid. The skin which forms on curdled milk is another common example of denatured protein.
An example of reversible denaturing in proteins is the modern permanent wave technique for curling or straightening hair.
Nucleic acid denaturation
The denaturation of nucleic acids such as DNA due to high temperatures, is the separation of a double strand into two single strands, which occurs when the hydrogen bonds between the strands are broken. This may occur during polymerase chain reaction. Nucleic acid strands realign when "normal" conditions are restored during annealing. If the conditions are restored too quickly, the nucleic acid strands may realign imperfectly.

Ene

Mark Meckes
26th January 2007, 04:24 AM
Thanks for the explanation Ene,
Yes, I was scratching my head on the term - autoclavados - autoclave.
Now I understand. In common english terms, a pressure cooker.
I have one for canning/preserving food, which I haven't tried with bamboo, though I do use a large steamer sometimes to sterilize bamboo.

BTW Water fountains are very good for relaxation and meditative purposes and I think this must be helping you to come up with very interesting ideas for treating bamboo.
Bamboo water fountains undergo a tremendous amount of duress during their lifetime, and it is a very good case example to experiment with various preservation methods.
Keep up the great work!

Mark

jpccusa
29th July 2007, 11:38 PM
I am sorry for taking so long to get back here to post the final result of my experiment. By the way, I am really happy with it! The water fountain has been running 24/7 for the last 6 months. The bamboo has not cracked and I am actually not even concerned if it does.

Take a look and leave me your feedback. :)
http://www.bamboocraft.net/gallery/data/3040/medium/HPIM0440.jpg (http://www.bamboocraft.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2209&cat=500&ppuser=2147)

Mark Meckes
30th July 2007, 12:32 AM
Hi jpccusa,
To put it simply ... this is Totally Cool!

I really like the way the water has darkened the color of the bamboo.
I notice this happens to our garden structures during a decent period of rain.
How do you have the top water line set up?
Are you using a pipe with holes drilled at a set distance?

Thanks for sharing this with us!

Mark

jpccusa
25th September 2007, 10:55 PM
Hey Mark

Yeah, there is a flexible tube running behind the waterfountain. When at the top, the water hits a "T" and is evenly distributed along the entire wall though holes around 5 inches apart on a PVC pipe.

Thanks for the compliments! :cool:

ZenSeeker
21st August 2009, 09:59 PM
Hey Mark

Yeah, there is a flexible tube running behind the waterfountain. When at the top, the water hits a "T" and is evenly distributed along the entire wall though holes around 5 inches apart on a PVC pipe.

Thanks for the compliments! :cool:

Wow! You really did an innovative job with your bamboo fountain!
Respect!

I see this post was 2 years ago. I am just curious, is your bamboo fountain still working?

I recently designed a Shishi Odoshi (http://www.squidoo.com/bamboo-fountain) and I am loving it!

jpccusa
24th August 2009, 11:01 AM
The bamboo fountain worked for a while, at least a year.
I made modifications to it so the water would stay in the front part only, but after a while the bamboo started splitting. Still looks cool though.
After a while the fountain got water stained and looked even better. Structurally, it is still strong.

ZenSeeker
1st September 2009, 12:37 AM
The bamboo fountain worked for a while, at least a year.
I made modifications to it so the water would stay in the front part only, but after a while the bamboo started splitting. Still looks cool though.
After a while the fountain got water stained and looked even better. Structurally, it is still strong.

Nice!

That's one of the things about bamboo: the older it gets, the beautiful it looks!

I have found that using split resistant mature bamboo spouts can really help when it comes to bamboo fountain designs..


Anyway, thanks for the udpate..

Cheers