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AntHill
19th February 2006, 04:17 PM
Hello. I am new here, but I have been working with bamboo since I was a teenager. So I have information that you may find useful.

Anyway, for those familiar with things like hornpipes, launeddas (from the island of Sardinia), mijwiz (from Near East), and bagpipes, I once made several such instruments from bamboo. Never made a bagpipe, but for making woodwinds the plain stakes used for gardening are pretty good, provided that you can find one that is straight and with long sections. Go for anything from ½"-3/4" O.D. with I.D. between 5/16 and 3/4. Anything at ¼" I.D. is good for really small pipes.

To make the holes in the pipe, I find that drilling a pilot hole in the bamboo and then burning them out with a red-hot iron is the best method. Not only are the holes cleaner, but also the end product looks neater. If using a drill instead, one should use a low speed; at high speeds the bit may catch in the bamboo and break it. Make a pilot hole, then ream out with the tang end of a file or a pointy, sharp knife. Finish rounding out the holes with an appropiately sized standard twist drill bit. Or, simply use an X-acto knife to round them out.

Or, one can use the following method if there is nothing round to work with. On the place where the hole is to be made, take a sharp, pointy knife and make a tiny rectangular indentation thereon, then remove the surface coating. Use the pointy part of the knife to cut the cane, then take out the cane plug from the hole. Finish the hole by cutting away the extra woody tissue until perfectly rectangular. This is the way that launeddas makers cut the holes on their instruments. I find an X-acto knife to be suitable for the job. A pocketknife will also work, but the knife must be sharp and pointy. Since the cane is a bit soft, a sharp knife will be required to prevent it from cracking.

As for the reeds, I find giant reed (Arundo donax) to be the best material, although common river reed (Phragmites australis or P. communis) is also a satisfactory material. However, I find that the former gives a stronger and clearer sound. Also, this material is less affected by moisture than is the latter.

There are different ways to make reeds, but making single reeds is pretty easy, especially when making an idioglot "up-cut" reed. Simply cut a segment of reed, with one end closed, and make a V-notch across the grain, about 1½" (3 cm) from the knot (node) end. Cut away bit by bit until the inside chamber is barely visible. Then take a sharp, thin knife and carefully split the cane, with the grain, right up to about 3/16" (5 mm) from the knot. Then slide the knife out. You should then have a "tongue" split from the rest of the body.

There is also a method for "down-cut" reeds. Simply remember to start the notch near the knot and make the split toward the open end.

I learned the above from trial and error. However, the above instructions are good for starters. Anyone who has made Sardinian launeddas or similar instruments should familiar with this method.

All are welcome to add their opinions. I am sure there are some of you who can make bassoon reeds. I still have difficulty making double reeds using A. donax, even though I do have some experience in doing that.

Also, if there is anyone on this forum that lives in California, I would like to see if I can obtain some dried stalks of A.donax from there. Since the climate there is much like that of the Mediterranean, I wonder if the cane from that State is of the same quality as what comes from the south of France and Italy. If that is so, then California seems to have the best cane in the U.S.

sound world
19th February 2006, 05:21 PM
I use the same method for 'down-cut' reeds using Arundo donax.What you didn't mention is that after the initial cutting of the reed,some scraping near the far end of the cut has to occur (for me anyway!) to get the reed to naturally rise away from the main body,thus making it easier to 'speak'.I used to make these reeds from normal garden cane bamboo and had a success rate of about 30%! Once I found a source for importing Arundo,it's gone up to around 99%!

Mark Meckes
28th February 2006, 08:45 PM
Here's a couple interesting articles at colorado.edu/Publications ...

ARUNDO DONAX: THE SOURCE OF NATURAL WOODWIND REED (http://idrs.colorado.edu/Publications/DR/DR2.1/arundo.html) - by Marilyn S. Veselack

excerpt ...
"Jaffrey recommends that the stems can begin to be harvested after they have hardened sufficiently and turned a golden yellow. The correct hardness may be attained after five to eight years' growth, while strength and color may require from ten to twenty years. If the stems are cut at a very early age, they will shrink to a mere shell when dry. If cut at a later age, but prior to maturity, the stems have a tendency to warp."
-------------

"... while strength and color may require from ten to twenty years..."

An A.donax cane can live this long ???

Mark Meckes
1st March 2006, 01:09 AM
BAROQUE OBOE REED-MAKING (http://idrs.colorado.edu/Publications/DR/DR2.1/baroque.html) - by Bruce Haynes
A very interesting article!

From the section on Gouging ...

"... Cane thickness is one of those variables which must be matched to a particular scrape, shape, etc. and ultimately depends on personal preference. Since the hardest cane is near the outer surface (or bark), the more material that can be removed from the inside surface of the cane by gouging, the harder, more resilient, and long-lasting the reed. This must be balanced by the fact that thicker cane generally gives a fuller and more desirable tone. A standard thickness does not guarantee consistent results, however. This is because cane varies in hardness, and the softer pieces need to be thicker to produce the same amount of resistance. One old tried-and-true method of measuring proper thickness is to hold the piece of cane between the thumb and forefinger of each hand and twist slightly: you quickly develop a sensitivity for the proper feel (i.e. thickness) of the cane."

thogoul
17th April 2006, 02:38 AM
from what I know about reeds, there are 3 types
-single reed (like on saxophone or clarinet)
-double reed(like oboe, indian shenaï,marocan reta,armenian duduk or french bombarde all very loud instruments)
-free reed (working like jew harp and used for many kinds of organs or traditional clarinet like the egyptian arghul (see double flute thread))
the best material for it is for sure Arundo Donax but it's also possible with different kinds of plants growing in rivers,also small plastic tubes can be used for double reed and metal for free reeds (in asia they use coins flattened with a hammer until they get thin like paper then they cut a reed in it)it's also possible to recycle reeds from old accordeons or harmonica.
about building them, I don't have so much experience
but I can say that building single reed from arundo donax was for me a lot of work with not so good results (for the clarinets i build, i use alto sax reeds which is better for selling them)
I'd like to work on free reed instruments with two techniques
one with arundo donax reed
and also try to build reeds from metal maybe thin cover pieces(I'm trying to find material)

well that's all for now...