Bending live shoots

[Phil Davidson]

how does one bend live bamboo shoots into a 'S' shape. I recently saw some photos of a Bambusa tuldoides 'Ventricosa' about 2 feet tall in this shape in a beautiful Chinese pot. They had kept a few branches at the top to form a beautiful 'tree-like' appearance.

Phil

[Mark Meckes]

Hi Phil,
One possible method is to use curved plastic pipe or connectors after first cutting them in half vertically, placing them over the shoot, and binding them together with duct tape, for easier removal and further adjustments as the shoot grows upwards.
I haven't tried this out, but I've read somewhere that in forming square bamboo, one can expect a certain degree of failure (mortality).
Just a guess, but I think the earliest flush of shoots might give the highest success rate, though in a natural grove setting, some of them don't always make it.
Another possibility, especially with a potted bamboo is to remove any other shoots so that all energy is directed towards survival of the shoots being contorted.
I had potted a small Phyllostachys flexuosa at one time and one half of the side of a shoot withered. What resulted was a foot+ long prostrate I/2" thin strip of live culm, the nodes growing only 1/2"-1" apart and the branches that grew from the nodes were unbelievably profuse with leaves.
Very interesting and bonsai shaped. I took it to a show as a tabletop display and someone begged to buy it from me. The price was right so I relented, with no gaurantee how many years it would live.
I've made divisions of bamboo that have had a healthy culm(s) but where no other shoots grew, and instead the culms produced extaordinary amounts of leaves from their side branches.
This makes me think that by diverting all energy towards specific shoots, that they could possibly be manipulated to a greater extent during their formative period.... something about directing it's instinct for survival to one focal point.

Mark

[Phil Davidson]

I was thinking of using PVC piping in 1/2 and 3/4 inch sizes, or maybe the 1 inch size for larger shoots. The best hardy bamboo to use (I think) would be P. aurea, where the nodes are jammed at the base and present a more interesting appearance. Other good choices might be P. nigra and P. a. 'Spectabilis.'
'Buddha Belly' on the tropical side is a natural choice to use for bonsai.

Phil

[Mark Meckes]

I've been fantasizing about doing some culm modifications for so many years I've lost count!
Again, another spring has passed by and the opportunity to try it out on our Phyllostachys aurea grove is gone. :(
We do have several Bambusa plantings which will be shooting very soon.
:)

Our B. t. `Ventricosa' and B. m. `Alphonse Karr' will be worth a try.
(... add PVC pipe connectors to my shopping list)

Each year I see P. aurea shoots around the home trying to come up through a `rock and a hard place', and various low-lying overhead obstructions etc, and the ones that do make it have shortened internodes and shrubbier branch parts.
Bamboo trying to grow through polyester tarp and other secured mesh-like light-weight fabric produces some interesting results too.

A relatively scar free method of pruning back top and side growth is to `pull out' the growing culm sheath tip as it begins to elongate.
Pulling out side branch leaf tips as they begin to unfurl induces bushier branches.
Bamboo topiary has a great future!

Mark
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